Lactic Acid

Lactic acid is one of the Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) family, derived from milk, although most forms used in cosmetics (including skincare) are synthetic, means that, they are mostly formulate in labs. This is because, it is easier to formulate and stabilise.

It is usually in pH 3-4 and in concentrations between 5 and 12%, lactic acid exfoliates on the surface of the skin by breaking down the materials that hold all the dead skin cells together, allowing the dead skin cells to shed away and new skin cells to surface.

And this will help with better products absorption. 

Lactic acid may cause sensitivity in certain cases, even though it is not common. Starts slow! When it comes to actives, especially exfoliating acids, always remember to go slow. Most of the times, we always refuse to listen to our skin (been there, done that), and it’s always easy for us to over exfoliate and overdoing it especially when we started to see the result is quite promising, in the early first to second month of using.

Besides helps to brighten up skin and helps with uneven skin tone, lactic acid also has hydrating properties, just like other AHA family members.

More reasons to love lactic acid are, besides being a gentle exfoliator, which is great for sensitive, dry skin, it inhibits (hinders) tyrosinase, enzymes that break down tyrosine (basically an amino acid) which leads to melanin production. When more melanocytes (cells that produce melanin) produced, the dark spots will become darker. So when tyrosinase being inhibited, over time, you will see improvement on your hyperpigmentation.

I’ve mentioned earlier, lactic acid has hydrating properties, which basically means it is a humectant. This means it helps in retaining the moisture of your skin. So, here’s a tip. After cleanse your face, on a damp face, apply any hydrating toner you have and then, proceed with your leave-on chemical exfoliant. Let it absorbs into your skin for a good few minutes and end your routine with a good moisturiser. If you have serums to incorporate, apply them after applying the chemical exfoliant and end your routine with a good moisturiser.

But personally, I don’t prefer myself going more than 4 steps in my skincare regimen, especially when I use any chemical exfoliants that time.

Some of us might not know this but lactic acid also helps with fine lines by stimulating fibroblasts (cells which produce collagen and other fibres) and it also increases ceramides production in our skin.

Because of the size if bigger compared to the glycolic acid, some dermatologists recommend lactic acid to those with sensitive or dry skin. But surely, among AHA, mandelic acid is the most gentlest because its size is the biggest among other AHA members. It is said the gentlest because when it is biggest in size, it means it’s gonna penetrate less deeper, resulting in slight to no irritation at all.

Here’s the most important part, I believe. According to FDA, based on few studies conducted, it has been confirmed using/applying any AHAs to the skin shows it increased UV sensitivity.

Taken from FDA websites;

“After 4 weeks of AHA application, volunteers’ sensitivity to skin reddening produced by UV increased by 18 percent. However, the studies also indicated that this increase in sensitivity is reversible and does not last long after discontinuing use of AHA cream. One week after the treatments were halted, researchers found no significant differences in UV sensitivity among the various skin sites.”  

So what do we do when we incorporate AHA into our routine?

SUNSCREEN! REAPPLY YOUR SUNSCREEN! It’s frankly not really a big deal if you work your ass out for it to be a habit.

After all, know your limits, know your warrior, wear your sunscreen and listen well to your skin!